Simple
and versatile, potato pancakes appeal to everyone from kids to
sophisticated diners. There are many recipes for them, and I find myself
changing them according to the meal and to my mood.
During the holidays, entertaining often means serving special meals such
as rack of lamb, expensive cuts of beef and favorite recipes for fish
and poultry. A crispy potato pancake helps elevate any of these, and
with the addition of appropriate herbs it will complement any main
course.
Timing the cooking is easy because the pan can be pulled off the heat if
finishing too soon and returned to heat up as the main course finishes.
Cooking it ahead and reheating it at serving time works as well.
Adding finely chopped onions, scallions, or shallots works with any
meal, but specific herbs can be added to match what is being served.
I find chopped rosemary works with any lamb dish as well as with grilled
swordfish. Sage goes well with pork or poultry, as would thyme, and a
few tablespoons of grated parmesan adds depth to the flavor.
Omit adding the onions, herbs and cheese if you wish. It is hard to go
wrong, so experiment and find your own preferences.
Choose baking potatoes, russet or any starchy variety, locally grown of
course. Some recipes call for mixing an egg which helps hold the pancake
together, but we usually omit it, finding the potato starch is
sufficient if excess water is removed. If the pancake comes apart when
it is turned, it is easily reformed in the pan by pressing with a
spatula.
Although I've made them in a stainless steel frying pan, using a non-
stick pan makes it easier to turn or remove the pancake.
Recipes
Potato Pancakes Four servings as a side dish:
Ingredients: 4 medium potatoes, peeled
1 egg, beaten (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1-2 tablespoons finely chopped onion, shallot or scallion
1 ½ tablespoon fresh herbs or 1 generous teaspoon dry
(optional)
2 tablespoons grated parmesan or other dry cheese
(optional)
Directions:
Grate potatoes on the coarse side of a four-sided grater
onto a clean kitchen towel. Pull the corners together and
twist the towel tightly to remove as much water as possible
from the potatoes (sometimes a surprising volume). In a
bowl, add salt and pepper to taste and mix.
Add egg and your
choice of other ingredients, if using, and mix well.
Heat a medium frying pan, preferably with sloping sides,
over low to moderate heat. Film the heated pan with olive
oil and add potatoes, pressing them to form an even pancake
which should be approximately ¾ inch thick.
Adjust heat so
that browning occurs slowly, permitting the inside to cook.
When the bottom is nicely browned (lift an edge to see),
shake the pan to loosen the pancake, remove from the heat
and place an inverted plate over the pan.
Turn the pancake
out onto the plate, add a small amount of oil to the pan and
slide the pancake back to continue cooking.
Continue cooking
until the second side is well browned and the inside is done
(use a knife to make a small slit to check).
If it is done
before the rest of the meal, pull it off the heat and reheat
just before serving.
This easily prepared and versatile side can be
served under, atop or beside the meat or fish, adding flavor and visual
appeal to your presentation. It is also a great way to get
the kids to eat potatoes!
About the author:
An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice
president of the New Hampshire Farmer's Market
Association (www.nhfma.org).
His column & recipes appear weekly in The Heart of New England's
newsletter...
get a free subscription by sending a blank email to:heartofnewengland-subscribe@yahoogroups.com or visit www.TheHeartofNewEngland.com
